2. Here are a few examples of shots Ive taken with Fomapan 400 Action, 200 Creative, and 100 Classic. Analog Workflow Forums (100% Analog/Traditional). for The fact that this experimentation was necessary with Fomapan but not with the Kentmere is quite damning in my opinion. Id say its Kentmere on the left and Fomapan on the right. Corrected a couple of typos in the original piece. If youre a fan of a particular era of films and love that high-speed crunch and grain that youd find in a 1970s roll of Kodak Tri-X and are okay with a bit of speed loss or an increase of grain plus a bit of soft mush and a mid-to-low contrast than Fomapan 400 might be a film to try. den habe ich in D76 zu recht brauchbaren ergebnissen bringen knnen. Fomapan features a more severe cut off, with well exposed images showing pure blacks and pure whites with only a very same-y grey in the middle. These images show how much information is available in these highlights when metered and exposed dead-on, as well as what detail is retained within the shadows and what is lost. Paste as plain text instead, I loaded up my LowePro 400 AW II with my Nikon F100, 12-24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8, and 85mm f/1.8 one foggy March morning before striking out through the streets of NYC to shoot some film. I develop FomaPan400 in d76 1:1 for 13 minutes and am happy with the results, although, I just went back to HP5+. For example a roll of medium format will cost you less than 5$. Deine Erfahrungen beziehen sich vermutlich auf den neuen APX 400. Fomapan 200 suited me better. I ask because my 30.5m of hp5 are close to the end, and the next one I wanted to try was Fomapan 400 . Welche Zeiten hast du verwendet? und es hat irgendwie immer gepasst. Dies betrifft sowohl die Chemieflaschen als auch Papiere. I mentioned in the Workflow section that the bulk of work shown was in either DDX or Fujifilm chemistry. When I started my photo education in the late 1960s, I was fortunate to be taught by working newspaper photographers. Id say that Fomapan 400 is fairly low grain, but largegrained very visible, but not bad to my eye. Processed in Legacy Pro L-110 (HC110 knock off) 1:40 from concentrate, 12 min at 19 deg. Kentmere seems to be accurately rated at 400, and Ive never been inclined to shoot it over/under, or even to push or pull it. I take my results at 400 and, more often than not, am happy with them. Fomapan on the other hand seems underexposed when shot at box speed. I am retired and still do not have enough time to photograph, let alone experiment with different films. Because Fomapan is a classic, old-school type of emulsion, its performance in 135 format is what youd more or less expect when shot in the much smaller frame size of 35mm film, which in a word, a bit grainy. Now we have a dilemma, my one roll experiment seems to be telling me that the Fomapan 400 is not a bad film for my taste the issue comes that reviews of this film are absolutely all over the place. Again, it is actually a 100 film and not a 200, but I like it better but it is not close to being in the same league as Kodak films by any stretch of the imagination. I tried Foma 400 and to be honest, I am not happy with it. Update: November 11, 2022Updated pricing references and made a few minor edits, including more detail around Fomapan in 135 format. Lines are clean, and micro-contrast is maintained. November 20, 2019. I Theres never a bad time to go out and shoot some film. Kodak prices, in particular, vary from one supplier to another, but as I write this Analogue Wonderland are selling Fomapan 400 for 4, Tri-X is 9.75 and T-Max 400 is 10.50. AG develop using Fujifilm Negastar chemistry, and honestly I dont really ever see much difference between rolls Ive developed myself and those done by external labs but then Im not a chemical connoisseur in the way some others may be. At $8.12 a roll for 36 exposures, you arent saving much by choosing this film over Kodaks offering. Push Fomapan 400. Id guess the image on the right is Fomapan and vice versa. Fomapan 200, Im still trying to figure something out. A lovely aesthetic, but definitely one to be controlled rather than allowed to get out of hand. It is a true 400 ISO film. First, a quick bit about the technical specs behind this comparison. Youre working in the profession, and Im a happily retired photo educator. Both of the images below are lower contrast than anything Id ever print, but as you can see, whilst we still have some detail in the shadows on the Kentmere image, our Fomapan has some pretty fine detail right across the image. Press?? Ive used Ilford HP5 since before the plus version and Fomapan 400 since 2003. (meine Frau sagt ja, das sei alles nur Voodoo und dass man das mit dem Kippen auch getrost bleiben lassen oder komplett bertreiben kann. because theyre reliable and inexpensive. Kentmere seems to be accurately rated at 400, and Ive never been inclined to shoot it over/under, or even to push or pull it. Kodak Tri-X 400 is a classic, and was the first film I started shooting with back in college. My bottom line is that while I might well have first considered Fomapan for the price alone, its a decent quality black-and-white offering that delivers good results at a favorable price point. That could be quite a difference. There really isn't any more of a risk with the more expensive film. The Professional's Source Since 1973 These are terrific. less forgiving) than HP-5 or Delta 400. document.getElementById("ak_js_1").setAttribute("value",(new Date()).getTime()); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Im not an authority on development my interest lies in the shooting experience, and for me this ends when the shutter is pressed. ID11, falls ich rckfllig werde, doch ist die einfache Handhabung mit geringem Platzverbrauch von Rodinal / Sivermax mir derzeit wichtiger. Fomapan is a film I tried when I first started out, but I was undertaking the learning curve of a film camera as well as film itself, and this meant that my results were not ideal. Otherwise Id say its a tossup between Kodak Tri-X and Ilford HP5 Plus. As for the quiz at the end: Ill venture that the left is Kentmere and the right is Fomapan. Rollei retro 400s/FX-39ii development time, Portra 400 35mm in-stock at Free Style (USA). Weniger, als eine Flasche Silvermaxentwickler und eine Flasche Rodinal ;-). See if you can guess which is which in the comments! I have been using Kentmere 400 for years now, primarily because its comes in at the cheaper (cheapest?) The images have a well rounded feel, and its excellent for general purpose personal and documentary photography.if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[300,250],'35mmc_com-large-mobile-banner-2','ezslot_19',189,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-large-mobile-banner-2-0'); The Fomapan suffers at 400, with a blockier rendering, and a foggy grey tone in the blacks which somewhat spoils the aesthetic, unless thats something youre especially looking for. I only used three cassettes of Fomapan 400 in 135 because shot outside I found it quite grainyhowever shots I made indoors under low light in a church and a museum looked really good. Film Photography Podcast and News Shoot Some Film, Dang it! Ive experimented with Foma quite a bit to get results that I feel represent the best possible look from this film. The question isn't "is HP5 $20 better than Foma", but rather "do I value my work to the tune of $20". I personally have a love/hate relationship with Tri-X because no matter what I do, the grain is always hit or miss when scanning. I have the feeling that you and I work in a similar style. Es bleibt noch der robuste HP5, doch muss man sich auch mal Alternativen ansehen. I dont think this had anything to do with overexposure since my F100 is usually pretty consistent in matrix metering mode. 3 Retropan 320 Shot through Franka Sollida II. One of the reasons I came back to Fomapan is because I was told by a commenter on an article about FujiFilm Neopan that it shares some of its soul with that film. 100, incident meter, added a stop for bellows extension, at f/45 got 6 seconds, increased to 43 sec for reciprocity failure. Grundstzlich passt auch jetzt alles in den Schrank, doch ordentlich ist das nicht. Im here a bit late, but I would like to add Rollei RPX. Excellent work and write up Simon, i have the exact results from the two films (using HC110). However, dependable old Tri-X 400 at 320 works for me, especially in 120 size. But dont limit yourself to those; it also sings in Kodak D-23. And I thought taping over the red dot was silly. It has a unique feel and look. Filling the Gap Photography & Mental Health. Sort: Order Added Price: lowest first Price: highest first Brand: A - Z Brand: Z - A Top Rated Clear All Trees dont move. Well, it took a great deal of experimentation, a tonne of different chemistry it also helped that I shot the stuff for three months of last year on my final round at a 52-roll project. Also scanner brand and model name please. I think that overexposed by a stop it definitely shares characteristics, there is some equivalency between the rendering of the grain, and the achievable contrast in flat light. I quit shooting Fomapan 400 because it was so scratch prone for me.Also, whats your Plustek workflow like Im thinking of ditching silverfast for vuescan, Im hearing vuescan makes for more neutral images because silverfast always wants to employ negafix profiles and rubbish like that (half the films I shoot dont even have a negafix profile). My experiences with both of these films has been through sharp lenses Leica, Zeiss, Nikon, some of the most reputable lenses for sharpness every produced. I can definitely see that whereas the Kentmere 400 is tried and tested, seems to give consistent results, as I have personally found, and is generally quite well respected as a cheaper 400 film, the Fomapan 400 is divisive. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Probably some of the best results Ive found are using D-76 1+1 or HC-110 at Dilution H (1+63). The FomaPan scratches real easily. Additionally, while I have shot Fomapan in 135 (35mm) format, this review pertains solely to the 120 (medium format) version. Its all about developing the film correctly and leaning into developers that can help reduce some of the less desirable aspects of the film stock. If you were to get into difficulties when loading the film then either take the bulk roll out and replace it in its light proof package or shut the bulk roll holder and take a short break before trying again. However I still wanted to see whether Fomapan 400 could work for me in any other use cases, and so shot this roll at EI200, one stop overexposed consistently. Die wild unverpackten Recycle Filme mchte ich ebenso wenig benutzen. I want to ask a question about developer; What kind of developer was used? (Never shot Ilford) I am definitely going to try Kentmere. Zu teuer ist er auch nicht: im 10er-Pack 4,39 bei Fotoimpex. I recently wrote a 5 Frames With Fomapan 400 where I described the results shot at EI1600 with a 2 stop push. It also dries flat so picking it up is a little trickier. Thanks again for another informative article. I no longer have to cross my fingers hoping that the negatives will come out. Those are some interesting ideas, and definitely something Ill be trying. Ive shot numerous rolls of this film to test repairs Ive made to my cameras, but not very many on what Id consider serious work. [] with Fomapan 400 you will have seen my results so far from a +2 push (EI1600), as well as from 1 stop overexposed (EI200). Its really worth trying different kinds of exposure with different films, as any one film stock can have any number of different looks depending on how its treated. Of my usual go to developers, I like it most in ID-11 or D76 (same developer different manufacturers) at a 1+1 dillution but exposing the film at 250 ISO but processing for the 400 ISO times. Definitely worth the effort but definitely to save for the summer! du hast freie Wahl: - mit Rodinal 1+50 fr gute Empfindlichkeitsausnutzung bis 640 ASA, Schrfe und normale Kontraste, (aber mitunter lange Entwicklugszeiten, die beim Agfakipprhythmus anstrengend werden), - mit Rodinal 1+100 fr hnlich gute Ergebnisse bei weiger Bewegungsarbeit fr den Arm in der (semi-)Standentwicklungund sparsamerer Ausnutzung der chemie, - mit Atomal49 fr schne Grauwerte aber nur bis 320 ASA und etwas weniger scharf, dafr weicheres Korn, - mit D76 fr Nennempfindlichkeit und etwas krzere Entwicklugnszeiten, - mit Rodinal 1+25 um den 60er-Jahre Zeitungsfoto-vintagelook mit ordentlich Korn und knackigen Kontrasten wiederzubeleben. Very little shadow detail, but great when you know how to use it. Ive never had an issue with a frame of film being too soft as a result of anything other than user error in terms of mis-focusing it. Another suggestion would be to shoot Kentmere 400 at box speed, but through a yellow or orange filter to boost the contrast. I started shooting with Kentmere a few months ago, in the hopes that it would provide a cheap, versatile walk-around film for general purpose street photography. Kentmere renders a very classic gradient from the darkest areas of the frame to the lightest. den APX400 kann ich uneingeschrnkt empfehlen. One word of caution when scanning Kentmere films with flatbed scanners like the Epson V600 or V800 - be very careful with the Unsharp Mask. HP5 habe ich unter diesem Handelsnamen nie verwendet, aber als Kentmere400 wird wohl eine recht hnliche Emulsion angeboten. Definitely a characterful film with quirks, and requiring experimentation before a user can be comfortable with what it offers. Kentmere is the easier and faster film, i have been able to get as good results as HP5+, and i somehow have this feel that the grain is smaller or less visible, may be completely objectively wrong. als der Silvermax darin ebenso mit guten Ergebnissen entwickeln lassen. If youve enjoyed my photographs here I have a larger selection available onmy Instagram, from all different kinds of films and projects. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thanks for taking the time to read my thoughts on Fomapan 400 @ 200. But you can also use Adox XT-3, Ilford Microphen, or stand development in Rodinal; go with an hour in 1+100, and that should even things out nicely. Clear editor. The Pen EE has not arrived yet.. Unless you really zoom in on the scans I think that the Nikon lenses I shot these images on delivered excellent results, and the film drew that sharpness without adding too much character. by visiting our affiliates! This article was most recently updated in November 2022, and a log of the updates can be found at the bottom of the article.). Everything is personal preference, just Fomapan 400 can also be used for street work in dull conditions or in areas where you want to show off a bit more crunch to go with urban decay. I thought it would be interesting to discuss the two, and make a few comparisons where appropriate in order to help guide people towards making a choice between perhaps the most popular budget black and white films on the market.if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[728,90],'35mmc_com-box-3','ezslot_1',179,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-box-3-0'); Ill be talking about the 400 variations of both as 400 speed films offer me the most diverse uses for general purpose, all-light shooting. Can you talk about what developers you used? Kentmere 400, exposed for the interior of the car. Id also highly recommend Kentmere 100, which I didnt test here but still make use of quite often. Some people maintain that it has that vintage TriX feel from the 60s. I personally enjoy pushing Kentmere and think its forgiving tonal range leads to better images when pushed. Ill tweak things in time and see if anything can be made to work better for me, but for now these are my opinions on each emulsion! You know what they basically said? I found you had to be more accurate with exposure (i.e. The same can be said for HP5 Plus. Ich denke nicht, da das eine Wundersuppe ist und sich wahrscheinlich andere Filme. All photographs and text appearing on 35mmc.com are the exclusive property of the named author (except where stated otherwise) and are protected by copyright. That being said, settling on using it as a 200 means that Ill shoot it less frequently, reserving it for spring/summer use. 35mmc is a blog authored, edited and published by Hamish Gill featuring daily articles submitted by readers. I recommend having a look at the images found in those to assess the qualities to be found at each different methodology. Ill have to try it now; thanks for the recommendation! Is that the new Jane Bond? Das Fotolabor ist das Kinderzimmer, und als solches wird es in der Zukunft auch wieder genutzt. I developed both films with rodinol, so a good deal of grain was to be expected. The only concession I made to scientific method was shooting them both on the same day, so there were similar lighting conditions. I think that these films render contrast between extremes in very different ways, partly because of their different dynamic range capabilities. Bei ISO 100/21 habe ich mich fr den Silvermax entschieden. Its not a popular developer for some reason but its cheap as chips and delivers a fine grain. Find out more about 35mmc here. This post was inspired by another I made back in the early days of my website, a post from October 2017 titled Kentmere 400 | Budget B&W Film. Fomapan 400 is the fastest emulsion in Foma Bohemias line of films. All I know is I was researching cheap 100 rolls and came upon this link. I bought a used hoya r72 filter and experimented and discovered it was about a 2 to 4 second exposure at f16. I am interested in contrast in less than optimal conditions, and the detail were able to pull out of specifically the darker areas of the image. Its actually the other way around Foma on the left! Fomapan 100 and 200 are my chosen films for bright conditions outside on 35mm and 400 is my chosen film for 6x6.It's just not great for 35mm nor is it very adaptable to different light conditions.in my experience. Im still not sure about Kentmere 400. I'm open to any dispute. The Kentmere is the real all rounder. Thanks John! Thanks Peter!I deliberately chose frames with similar tones so it would be a bit trickier.The one of the left is the Fomapan. But, as might have become evident at this point, my film choices are not exactly highly informed, I wasnt about to shoot test targets or anything ridiculous like that I just used both films as I usually would, then developed them according to the manufacturers instructions. Glad you liked it!The one on the left is the Foma! All negatives were scanned on a Nikon D810 with the 60mm f/2.8 AF-S macro lens and a Nikon ES-2 adapter, which is a massive leap forward in quality from the V600 I used when I first started shooting film. Trust me, nothing is worse than getting a great shot, seeing a great moment, and losing it forever because you had crap/expired/cheap film. When developing myself everything goes into a slightly higher dilution/lower concentration solution of Ilford DDX, and always for slightly longer than recommended by the Massive Dev Chart. But not everyone wants to limit this film to over-exposure and pull development. It will also mean that I can make a few comparisons to other, higher end 400 speed films, as they fill roughly the same space. Fomapan 400 is pretty grainy, high-contrast, and cheap. Ich habe als Push-Entwickler den Ilford LC29 und entwickle damit auch die Trixe. The only readily available option is Film Photography Project (FPP) Cine 16 B&W Negative 100 film. To learn more, check-out the About page, or read News for the latest. Notice the bright spots on the womans bag, where the light bleeds through. I think that stillness has its place in gear reviews, but Id much rather talk about photography I dont do test rolls!Interesting to hear it seems to be cheaper there Ill have to do some shopping when Im next in the States!Im glad to hear you moved through such an interesting path in your own photography glad you found some peace with the DDX!Happy shooting! As of October 2021, Tri-X will run you $9.95 a roll for 36 exposures. Ill soon be trying it at box and slightly overdeveloping it at a high temperature to see if I can achieve similar results to overexposing it by one stop. Ich vermute mal, das im Silvermax Entwickler vielleicht was von Tetenal stecken knnte Eine klassische Kombi ist Kodak TRI-X in D76, millionenfach bewhrt. Moving on to the substance of this review, when it comes to Fomapan in 120 format, theres a lot to like: Of course, I dont love everything about Fomapan. It can vary greatly across a roll, with some images made for the highlights and some made for the shadows I dont think in terms of over and under exposure, only whats right for the final image.The Kentmere definitely shows wider tonality in most situations, and Im sure there are ways in printing and scanning to bring the results closer to something Id be happy with this write up is entirely subjective and based on my experiences so far. And many of us are looking for ways to shave a few bucks off the cost of our favorite hobby. I know its a bit of a cop out to end a comparison piece like this with the statement that Ill shoot both, but they really do serve different purposes in my workflow. I got on my high horse and wrote an email to Foma to complain. Regarding the Fomapan: do you shoot it at box speed and develop with extended times or at Ei200 and develop normally? You can see the loss of highlight at the top of the frame, but there are more shades of grey that are maintained. I guess that having used it for so long is also a factor, but I have a lot of confidence in Kentmere 400. 200 is of course fine, and in accord with the earlier ASA rating system. Most of my serious stuff I would not use 35mm for. In my experience it really shines one stop from box, at EI200. Great article Simon! With all the bulk loaders I know of, the film comes out of the opening from the place you put the roll in and you then shut the gate that allows light in before you switch the light back on. The images made with that extra stop of light were enough to allow me to settle for [], [] The images above all felt under exposed. Its predictable, and has a very classic feeling to it. leider habe ich beim K400 aber in der standentwicklung nie die Wlkchen in den Griff gekriegt- die Entwicklung wurde immer fleckig und ungleichmig, weil ja die Bewegung fehlte. Hvesterlos 1 yr. ago. Thank you Daniel! totally agree with the article. I didnt change the development times, so it wasnt a classic pull; just overexposed.if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[728,90],'35mmc_com-box-3','ezslot_1',179,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-box-3-0'); I think that under these conditions the film really came into its own. I want to see what a film or lens does on the street or around people. I do keep a bottle of Rodinal on hand for slower films (Ferrania P30 or Across 100) but DD-X is my go-to for everything else. https://emulsive.org/reviews/film-review-fomapan-400-arista-edu-ultra-400, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7822-REG/B_W_65072240_39mm_Infrared_Dark_Red.html, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/23077-REG/Hoya_B55RM72_55mm_R72_Infrared_Glass.html. The golden rule of film photography is to shoot for the shadows and develop for the highlights, however Id caution overexposing this film too much. The developer shouldnt matter too much for this kind of process, any will do.The scanner I use is a Plustek 8100. And believe me, they are crummy. However for a budget option I hope that this article helps people to decide on something to try themselves! Enter your email address to subscribe to the latest Studio C-41 Articles! Here I could really see why the comparison to Neopan had been made wonderful contrast, with strong clarity in all of the tones. As I mentioned earlier, the film performs the best when over-exposed by a stop or a little less than a stop, but that shouldnt stop you from shooting it as the box speed of ASA-400. Shadow detail is close to non-existent in these situations, but I am usually happier with the look of these images. HP5 habe ich unter diesem Handelsnamen nie verwendet, aber als Kentmere400 wird wohl eine recht hnliche Emulsion angeboten. Der 100/21 Silvermax in Silvermax Entwickler entspricht genau dem was ich suchte. notfalls kann man es in 1+100 mit einer Standentwicklung versuchen. Bringt der APX 400 tatschlich 640 ASA bei Rodinal? However I think there are some quite distinguished features to the grains of these films that should remain constant regardless of the technique used. If you want some quality on iso 1600 with a iso 400 film use the HP5+ or films like delta 3200 or Tmax 3200 on iso 1600. And one further note here. Kentmere 400 feels like Tri-X with less dynamic range. Theres always something interesting here. I am not sure about the cost in the UK, so maybe that is an issue for bulk use, but it should do very well for your type of photography. I thankfully finally ran out of the 100ft. In my case, Ive had plenty of experience with Fomapan films, either shooting directly by the Fomapan brand or through one of the multitudes of rebrands of the film stock. This allows me to worry less about temperature, and I sort of just let things sort themselves out in the tank with as little agitation as necessary. This means whether my subject is passing through light or shade they will have detail in my frame. Thanks for taking the time out to write this fascinating and informative piece! I highly recommend you check it out here. Fomapan 400 is one of those polarising films, either you love it or hate it, and even those who love the film have mixed opinions. Especially if Im working at a reenacting event. There are definitely shared characteristics in the results of these films, but I think its more like that Fomapan 400 is a cubic grained film. And the best part is that you can get Fomapan 400 in medium format and sheet film. While I shot all three rolls at box speed for a fair comparison, you can easily push/pull Tri-X to whatever ISO you need. I bought some and tried it and it worked. Ive seen Fomapan described as having a tabular grain structure, the same as found in Delta, T-Max, and Neopan lines of film, as well as C41. There is no longer that very obvious and annoying halation or muddiness in the prints. The contrast of a Fomapan 400 is going very high at higher iso rates. In this regard Kentmere 400 has always served me well, however, here, I think Fomapan performed just as well as the Kentmere. That stuff came in handy as I dabbled in that artsy stuff. . I shoot both of them. And the best part is that you can get Fomapan 400 in medium format and sheet film. Exposure: 1/500 @ F5.6 (Y2 filter and rubber lens hood) Film: Fomapan 200 Creative dev. Lets face it: Shooting film is not exactly the cheapest of all possible endeavors. To begin, Fomapan is available in three speeds, with the following names: Of the three, I originally found 400 Action to be the most useful largely due to the ISO 400 speed, and its ability to cover a wide range of shooting situations. Added additional sample images. Thank you Marius! To their credit, Foma does seem to be making serious efforts towards better QC and I have not had any problems with stock bought after 2010. for Accessibility for blind people who use screen readers; Press?? Find out more about 35mmc here. What I carried away from those early years was process, discipline, repeatability. News, Tips & Reviews. (Free 3-day trial)Subscribe here. Again, much of that comes down to personal taste, and what you want from your photographs.

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